Jewellery Mavericks: An Interview with Sonia Esther Soltani
In this installment of the Jewellery Mavericks series, we’re talking with Sonia Esther Soltani, a multi-hyphenate who has established herself as a discerning eye within the fine jewellery industry. Sonia is the editor-in-chief of Rapaport, managing their monthly print magazine, The Jewelry Connoisseur, the Rapaport online blog, as well as overseeing news on Diamonds.net and hosting a podcast on antique and vintage jewellery. She is certified as an Applied Jewellery Professional under the GIA and has a particular interest in responsibly sourced jewels and innovative design.
In this interview, Sonia explains the importance of craftsmanship and personality when it comes to fine jewellery and why sustainable sourcing is crucial not just for the future of the industry, but for our very relationship with our most meaningful fine pieces.
Who was your greatest influence in shaping your jewellery taste? Do you remember when and how your passion was kindled?
My mum and grandmother didn’t have much jewellery but I learned something from both of them: the sentimental value of jewels and the importance of good craft. My mum inherited a beautiful diamond ring from a great aunt and a simple gold signet ring from another great aunt. She always wears the simpler ring because she had a greater connection with its former owner.
As for my grandmother, her motto was less is more, but less had to be well crafted and high quality.
I’ve always loved classic Hollywood movies—anything with Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly—so I have a soft spot for glamorous, feminine styles.
I started writing about the jewellery industry four years ago (I’m still a newbie), and since then I’ve discovered a fascinating creative universe. I would say the jewels that really get me excited are the ones which reveal their creator’s personality and vision, where you can really feel that the artisan/artist put their heart in it as my grandmother would say.
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What is your favourite coloured gemstone?
I’m obsessed with emeralds. To me they evoke the magnificence of Cleopatra, the treasures of the Mughals, and the glamour of Elizabeth Taylor. Whether it’s a ring set with a step-cut stone to let the power of the emerald colour emanate fully or mixed with diamonds in a pair of earrings, I’m drawn to the gem’s energy. Even designs that might not be my style, if they feature emeralds, are likely to get my attention.
What are the biggest trends you’re currently seeing in the jewellery industry?
Personalisation and bespoke designs seem to be ruling the scene, especially as jewellery collectors are looking for pieces that completely reflect their style and personality. And if it’s not bespoke, it should at least be personal, like a letter pendant or a symbolic motif that they can relate to.
Meanwhile, the quest for sustainability is not a trend, it’s here to stay and that’s something to celebrate. Gen Z and Millennials, and anyone who has a more conscientious approach to luxury, are asking key questions: where is my jewellery from? Who made it? And what impact did it have?
Finally, vintage jewellery or vintage-inspired styles are having an increasing appeal for consumers. As someone who loves jewellery with stories, I can only rejoice.
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When you think about customisation of a ring or jewellery piece, what gets you excited?
I love the fact this will be something that will get a “this is so you” reaction, whether the person who says it likes the jewel or not. To have an ornament that reflects my personality and life story is the biggest luxury.
Thanks to Sonia for sharing her insights with us. Her approach to bespoke design and vintage craftsmanship is an asset to the whole jewellery industry, and we can’t wait to see what priceless treasures she’ll come across next. Keep up with her work in Rapaport and the The Jewelry Connoisseur here.