Prong or claw ring setting: a timeless classic

Prongs and claws are timeless. Since the early days of jewellery craftsmanship, metal has been used to secure stones in place and when you think of the iconic solitaire engagement ring style, you’ll always think of the classic four or six claw/prong setting. This setting style can accommodate a range of stone shapes and sizes while positioning the stone on centre stage.

A prong or claw ring setting is perhaps the most iconic engagement ring style–seen on the billboards and screens of early jewellery advertising back in the mid-twentieth century. This setting style features metal claws or prongs that hold the diamond or precious coloured gemstone in place, ready to be showcased on centre stage. The prongs or claws can be adjusted to fit the diamond shape and size of the stone, creating a secure setting that showcases the stone’s brilliance.

A four-prong setting consists of just that–four metal claws hold the stone in place by holding its edges and/or corners. Typically the fewest quantity of claws available, a four claw setting features the smallest amount of metal on the stone, resulting in maximising the stone’s visibility but also allowing the greatest amount of light to enter the stone from multiple angles which results in a glorious brilliance–often referred to as sparkle.

The four-prong design is popular because it balances showcasing the stone’s beauty with providing security for the centre stone. It’s most often seen on designs that feature stones with curved edges or with four corners, like a round, cushion, Asscher or princess shaped diamond.

A five-prong setting consists of five metal claws that the centre gemstone is nestled between. In comparison to a four-prong setting, a five claw design is more frequently used on engagement ring designs that use stones that have both curved edges and corners that end in a point, such as a pear shaped diamond. The reason for the additional claw or prong is usually to offer increased security for the stone to avoid it from being easily chipped or knocked.

A six-prong setting consists of six metal prongs that are evenly distributed around a gemstone to cradle and hold the centre gemstone in place.You’d typically opt for a six claw in over a four claw setting when setting a stone shape like a marquise or hexagonal shaped diamond in order to protect the corners of the stone. A round diamond is also often set with six prongs instead of four, but usually for aesthetic purposes or if the centre stone is exceptionally large and requires further security.

An eight-prong setting consists of, you’ve guessed it, eight metal prongs that encircle the centre gemstone. The additional prongs offer enhanced security, minimising the risk of the gemstone becoming loose or dislodged. This setting style offers both functionality and an elegant aesthetic, showcasing the gemstone while providing peace of mind to the wearer.

Other claw or prong types and shapes include rounded, eagle and square claws, petal claws, V-shaped claws and bar claws. Some people prefer larger prongs because they create a highly secure setting while offering a sculptural aesthetic, while others opt for daintier claws as they let more light into the gemstone, allowing the stone to exhibit more brilliance and life in the light.

The two most popular shapes of claws or styles are round claw and eagle.

A prong setting and a basket setting refer to different design elements of an engagement ring. A prong setting refers to the way the top of a centre stone is held securely in place while a basket setting refers to the metal work that cradles the base of the stone from beneath it. Both are required and considered when designing an engagement ring and must both co-exist to ensure your centre stone is kept protected and positioned correctly for you to enjoy.

These two design elements are mutually exclusive of each other–you’re able to have both a prong setting style with a cathedral setting or opt for one or the other.

You’ve learned what a prong setting is, but a cathedral setting features arches or raised shoulders that elevate the centre stone, creating an elegant and sophisticated look. It provides additional support and stability to the gemstone. While the cathedral setting offers several advantages, it also has a few potential drawbacks to consider. The cathedral setting may not be suitable for those seeking a minimalistic or understated look, as it tends to be more ornate and visually prominent. The intricate design and extra metalwork required for the cathedral setting can also add to the overall cost of the piece.