Asscher Diamond Engagement Rings

Asscher diamonds exhibit unique flashes of light, with step cut facets that draw your eye into the center of the stone.

The basics

The Asscher diamond has 72 facets cut at right angles, known as step cut facets. These facets are unlike those seen in round or oval diamonds. Instead of being kaleidoscopic, they’re linear, large and wide-set, with three rows on top and three on the bottom. The elegant step cut draws your eye into the center of the stone, creating a captivating optical illusion known as the “Hall of Mirrors”.

When grading diamonds of this shape, the GIA will also call the Asscher a cut-cornered square step cut, a square emerald cut or an octagonal cut. Typically seen in vintage jewelry design, Asscher diamonds sit beautifully in both antique settings or contemporary designs.

Why should I choose an asscher cut diamond?

Asscher cut diamonds are an art deco lover’s dream. The cut has a timeless appeal as dynamic and original. The Asscher cut is the perfect combination of the princess cut and the emerald cut, as it is a step cut diamond but with a flattering square shape that gives the cut its distinct pattern.

Asscher cut diamonds are cut in a unique way. They have 72 facets, which allows the stone to to have a lot of brilliance, with large flashes of light that create a distinct hall of mirrors pattern. The hall of mirrors effect is what gives the Asscher cut its distinctive vintage appearance.

While appearing square, the Asscher cut is actually octagonal. Instead of just having 4 sides, the square shape of the Asscher has angled corners, adding to the diamond’s flair and elegance.

This diamond shape is one of the fancy cuts, meaning that it is distinct from the popular round brilliant diamond shape. Because the Asscher shape is less in demand, the cut is about 15% more affordable than a round brilliant cut of the same carat weight. The affordability of the beautiful Asscher diamond is another reason to choose this cut!

asscher engagement ring

The history of the asscher cut diamond

The Asscher diamond has a compelling history dating back over a century. The Asscher cut diamond was invented in 1902, by Joseph Asscher—one of the famous Asscher brothers and founders of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. The Asscher brothers had a patent on the cut which meant that no other person could sell a diamond cut in this way. For years, only the Asscher brothers could produce and sell the cut.

Over time, the Asscher family grew their business and eventually built a factory employing over 500 polishers. But this all changed during WWII, when Nazis imprisoned the Jewish Asscher family and the factory’s polishers into concentration camps. All of their diamonds were seized, and the patent for the Asscher cut was left to expire.

Following the tragic and irreplaceable loss of many of their family members, the Asscher brothers were determined to rebuild their company in the post-war economy, eventually bringing it back to its former success and earning a royal title from the Dutch Royal Family. In 1999, Joseph Asscher’s sons, Edward and Joop, developed an enhanced version of the Asscher cut with more facets and this became known as the Royal Asscher cut.

While the Asscher cut is a popular cut today, the shape reached its height of popularity before WWII, in the 1920s art deco era. The prevalence of the Asscher cut during this time has led many to associate the cut with vintage or retro styles.

Do Asscher cut diamonds sparkle?

An Asscher engagement ring has a spectacular brilliance, thanks to the large step facets and the high crown in the cut. While some compare the Asscher cut to the emerald cut, they have completely a completely different optical effect. The Asscher cut’s pattern of facets give the gemstone the ‘endless hall of mirrors’ look. The Asscher cut’s brilliance and sparkle is unlike any other gemstone cut, so for a bride looking for something special, the Asscher cut is a perfect choice.

asscher cut diamond

What should I look for in an asscher cut diamond?

If you are considering buying an Asscher cut engagement ring, there are a few elements that you should look for. Of all the 4 C’s, when it comes to an Asscher clarity is the most important element to pay close attention to. The table of the cut is flat, and you can see clearly into the center of the stone. So, it is important that you choose an Asscher with great clarity, no less than VS2.

When it comes to color, because of the cut’s step facets, it is also easier to see any hints of color within the diamond. We would recommend staying within the D-G range to achieve a perfect clear white hue.

How much is an asscher cut diamond?

A 1ct Asscher cut diamond set with a solitaire yellow gold, white gold or rose gold band costs about $5,000. A 1ct Asscher cut diamond set with a solitaire platinum band costs about $5,200.

A 2ct Asscher cut diamond set with a solitaire yellow gold, white gold or rose gold band costs about $18,900. A 2ct Asscher cut diamond set in a platinum band costs about $19,100.

Celebrity Asscher cut diamond engagement rings

The Asscher diamond is the perfect cut to express individuality, so it’s no wonder that many celebrities choose an Asscher for their engagement ring. Style icons such as Elizabeth Taylor and Pippa Middleton all prefer the original cut, as it reflects their classic style.

Elizabeth Taylor’s Asscher cut diamond ring is truly iconic. Richard Burton gave the 33.6ct diamond ring to Taylor in 1968. The diamond was internally flawless and a D color—a truly spectacular diamond ring.

Pippa Middleton’s art deco inspired engagement ring perfectly suits her style as a classic English rose. Featuring a bezel set 3.5 Asscher cut diamond surrounded by a channel set round diamond halo, the engagement ring is a show stopper.

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