Vintage engagement rings

The rose cut diamond dates back to the 16th century and is often seen in antique jewellery. It features 3-24 triangular facets, peaking into a rose shape, resembling the soft curve of a rose. Rose cut diamonds are hand-carved by jewellers and are therefore quite rare– a rose cut diamond would make a wonderfully unique vintage diamond engagement ring.

The old European cut is the predecessor of the round brilliant cut diamond, featuring 58 facets. But what makes this cut unique is the intention with which it was created—to be worn in low candlelight where they produce a stunning glow, unmatched by any other cut.

• Typical Georgian engagement ring settings include clusters and mounted bezels crafted in 22ct or 18ct gold
• Natural and organic themes with intricate shapes usually achieved through milgrain or filigree. These design elements are a moulded metal work detail, typically seen in vintage engagement ring design. Motifs often seen included love knots, hearts, leaves, wheatsheaf patterns and flowers
• Experimental diamond cutting—this was common in order to maximise the diamond’s light performance. In years previous, most jewellery was set with an enclosed back and a piece of foil was positioned behind the diamond to increase its brilliance

This period reflected the early years of the young monarch’s reign and the excitement it brought with it. Typical early Victorian jewellery featured:

• Large, bright gemstones; typically amethyst, amber, bloodstone, pearl, garnet, chalcedony agate, ruby, smoky quartz, and topaz. Any of these gemstones could make a wonderful cocktail ring, but we recommend a gemstone that is more durable for an engagement ring since they’re worn everyday. Ring designs were crafted with delicate edges and open settings to show off the centre stone’s glory or often featured cameos.
• Mixed media rings increased in popularity, featuring materials that weren’t typically paired in jewellery, such as ivory, coral and tortoise shell with precious gemstones. Much like Georgian jewellery, designs were inspired fauna and flora alike, featuring details like doves, snakes, leaves, floral garlands, vines, hearts and even eyes
• Designs were inspired by ostentatious creatures, such as serpents. Representative of eternal love, snakes became popular motifs in early Victorian jewellery. Queen Victoria herself received an engagement ring featuring a snake with an emerald set in its head from Prince Albert, and just like royals of today, whatever she wore became all the rage
• Rose cut and old European cut diamonds were used as feature centre stones throughout all three stages of the Victorian Era and remain popular in today’s market
• Bold designs such as elaborate Celtic-inspired knots and twists, perhaps inspired by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s presence in Scotland, having bought an estate in Balmoral

• The late Victorian jewellery period saw jewellery return to more feminine and soft motifs
• Designs were once again set with bright, decadent gemstones such as pearl, ruby, sapphire, topaz, zircon and diamonds
• Many late Victorian jewellery designs feature diamond clusters and play on a light and delicate finishes which inspired the following Edwardian period
• While gold carat alloys remained popular, platinum was widely used and innovations in machinery resulted in higher levels of mass jewellery production
• More elaborate motifs emerged, such as stars, crowns, bows, ribbons and even Egyptian designs, inspired by movements and inspirations around the world

• The Asscher cut—although originally developed in 1902, this cut didn’t surge in popularity until the Art Deco period. Beautiful in a trilogy setting, these cuts are known for their large, open tables and are the right choice for lovers who seek a simple nod to vintage elegance in a diamond engagement ring.
• It’s white gold or platinum—yellow gold saw a serious slump in this period.
• Colourful gemstones and large diamonds were all the rage. Gemstones typically featured were: emeralds, sapphires, jade, black onyx, rubies, crystal, and mother-of-pearl
• Milgrain—a raised beading detail that is often seen in antique-style jewellery—rose to fame again in the Art Deco period. Typically featured along the edges of ring designs, milgrain serves as a textured frame, emphasising the beauty of the gemstone or diamond at the centre.

• Takes the static and geometric shapes of Art Deco design and softens them with the free flowing styles of Edwardian and Art Nouveau periods. The key difference from preceding design periods is that retro jewellery was flashy and glamorous
• The vivid designs lead to a prevalence of costume and cocktail jewellery. Actresses dazzled audiences from the big screen and from red carpet events alike showcasing exceptionally large diamonds and coloured gemstones
• Unsurprisingly, retro engagement rings also tended to be more fun, sculptural, and adventurous than styles of the past
• Gold became the primary metal used in jewellery as platinum had been reserved for the wartime effort