Marquise
The stunning Marquise cut diamond, sometimes referred to as the navette shape diamond, dates back to 18th century France. King Louis XV ordered royal jewelers to cut diamonds to resemble the lips of his lover, Marquise de Pompadour.
Why should I choose a marquise diamond?
Steeped in historical romance, this cut has a strong presence–one that will certainly stand out. Its unique elongated shape with pointed ends demands to be the center of attention.
Marquise diamonds can be set vertically or horizontally or even as accent side stones. Most rings feature a vertical placement, set in the more traditional north-south setting for a more traditional style.
However, actresses Catherine Zeta-Jones and Portia de Rossi both wear east-west marquise engagement rings–giving a contemporary finish on an otherwise very traditional item of jewelry.
Popular marquise diamond engagement rings
What factors should I consider when choosing a marquise diamond?
Some marquise shaped diamonds may have a bow-tie effect which occurs when light doesn’t bounce into the middle of the diamond because of the way the diamond is cut.
This appears as a bow-tie shape darkness visible in the center of the diamond. While most agree that this is part of a Marquise diamond’s beauty, a severe effect is undesirable. All of our diamonds are hand-inspected twice to ensure they don’t possess a strongly visible bow-tie effect.
Marquise cut diamond with a strongly visible bow tie
If you’re looking for a large presence on the finger, look no further than the marquise. This shape has a larger spread on the finger than many others of equal carat weight. A magnificent choice for those wanting to elongate the look of their finger–it’s basically a win-win!
Kate Earlam-Charnley, Design Director
What is the best ratio for a marquise cut diamond?
Marquise ratio should be lead by personal preference. For a more rounded, wider marquise shape, a lower ratio is needed. For a narrower, elongated shape, a higher ratio should be chosen.
Marquise diamonds typically have a 1.85 – 2.00 ratio, making its length around twice the size of its width, which is considered an ideal balance.
Marquise Cut Guide
While marquise cut diamonds don’t have an official cut grade, the chart below serves as a general guide to use when considering the cut of a marquise diamond.
| Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Table % | 53-63 | 52 or 64-65 | 51 or 66-68 | 50 or 69-70 | <50 or >70 |
| Depth % | 58-62 | 56-57.9 or 62.1-66 | 53-55.9 or 66.1-71 | 50-52.9 or 71.1-74 | <50 or >74 |
| Girdle | Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Thick | Very Thin - Very Thick | Ex. Thin - Ex. Thick |
| L/W Ratio | 1.85-2.00 | 1.75-1.84 or 2.01-2.15 | 1.65-1.74 or 2.16-2.30 | 1.55-1.64 or 2.31-2.45 | >1.55 or <2.45 |
Marquise Color Guide
What color should I choose for a marquise cut diamond?
Evaluating color in marquise cut diamonds is entirely dependent on the preference of its buyer or wearer.
Customers may prefer the warmer tones of color grades G-H to the icy cool tones of color grades D-F, especially when set in rose or yellow gold.
The truth is, the difference between these two color grade ranges is difficult to perceive, especially to the naked eye.
| Excellent | Very Good | Good | |
|---|---|---|---|
| <0.50ct | D-G | H-I | J |
| 0.51-1.00ct | D-F | G | H-I |
| 1.00-2.00ct | D-F | D-F | G-H |
| >2.00ct | D-F | D-F | G- |
Marquise Cut Guide
Clarity in marquise cut diamonds is dependent on personal preference.
Some people may be entirely comfortable with a diamond that features clarity characteristics (also known as inclusions) that aren’t visible to the naked eye. Others may insist on a technically flawless appearance for absolute perfection.
To ensure the brilliance and fire that makes diamonds so enchanting, we offer and recommend SI1 clarity grades or higher.
| Excellent | Very Good | Good | |
| <0.50ct | FL-VS2 | SI1 | SI2 |
| 0.51-1.00ct | FL-VS1 | VS2-SI1 | SI2 |
| 1.00-2.00ct | FL-VVS2 | VS1-VS2 | SI1-SI2 |
| >2.00ct | FL-VVS2 | VS1-VS2 | SI1 |