Diamond Cuts Comparison: Shapes, Sizes, and Symbolism

Diamond cutting has seen an evolution over centuries gone by, which has resulted in a range of different diamond appearances. Before machinery that emerged following the industrial revolution, diamonds were often cut by hand, using techniques that are rarely used today. These vintage cutting techniques resulted in diamonds that possessed shapes, facet structures and dimensions that captured the design trends of their respective eras.

With the increase in diamond cutting machinery, cutting diamonds entered a new realm of precision, introducing the brilliant cut diamond. A new diamond cut that possessed brilliance and fire-or more often referred to as sparkle. This new cut allowed diamonds to shine bright and became the new cutting standard for traditional and unique diamond shapes alike.

A diamond’s cut is directly related to the diamond shape and how it will perform in the light when worn. So in some cases, a diamond’s shape is more suited to a step cut facet structure. Step cut diamonds feature facets that are cut into square or rectangular shapes that emerge from the diamond’s centre like steps-as its name suggests. These step cut facets result in a different light return than a brilliant cut diamond. While a modern round brilliant cut will be lively and sparkle, a step cut diamond will display flashes of light, sometimes referred to as a “Hall of Mirrors” effect. This effect is often seen in emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds.

Let’s dive into what makes each of these diamond cuts so enchanting and their pros and cons.

The old European cut diamond is a predecessor of the modern round brilliant cut. Cut by hand, an old European diamond also has 58 facets and was created in the late 19th century.

This diamond cut is characterised by its high crown, small table and large culet that gives old European cut diamonds an incredible presence on the hand.

Unlike the modern brilliant cut, this antique cut is known for it’s “inner fire”-a visible contrast between the bright and dark flashes of light off facets inside the diamond.

Another predecessor of the modern cut diamond, old mine cuts were particularly popular throughout the 1800s. Much like other vintage diamond cuts, every old mine cut diamond would have been hand-cut resulting in a more artisanal appearance. No two old mine diamonds will look the same, and that is an inherent part of their charm. In shape, old mine cuts are most similar to the modern day cushion cut diamond.

There isn’t a huge amount of readily available mine cut diamonds due to the transition of the diamond market into machine cutting for precision. However, as we find greater appreciation for understated jewellery, the old mine cut’s subtlety is seeing a resurgence once more and we hope it will continue.

The thing is, there isn’t actually a shape difference. Both a rose cut diamond and a brilliant cut diamond can be found in a round shape, a pear, or an oval cut diamond. The cut doesn’t influence a diamond’s shape, but instead influences its light performance.

Almost every element of a rose cut diamond exudes romance. Its hand carved, imperfect finish is perhaps its greatest charm-the work of a skilled craftsman has delicately cut each facet, ready to be admired under candlelight.
Size

A rose cut diamond’s flat base creates a larger surface area, giving substantial coverage on the finger. A one carat rose cut diamond would appear larger than a one carat brilliant cut diamond as it isn’t as deep. This makes rose cuts an excellent choice to maximise your budget with maximum carat weight impact.

While some believe the imprecise nature of a rose cut diamond is its greatest strength, others disagree. It’s large, open facets leave no place for imperfections to hide, so if you’re a stickler for precision, a brilliant cut diamond will offer the facet accuracy and clarity you’re after.

When it comes to sparkle, you’re not going to achieve a more lively appearance than a brilliant cut diamond. Be it round, oval, cushion or a princess cut diamond, brilliant cuts exude an unrivalled fire and make a perfect choice for those who love bling.

When it comes to proposals, a traditional brilliant cut diamond instantly comes to mind. The bright flashes of light are a universally recognised symbol of union between two lovers.

A brilliant cut diamond commands the highest price point. Different shapes will offer different value for money, but the cutting process for brilliant cuts produces the most waste. It’s for this reason that shapes like princess, cushion, oval and pear cuts have a higher price tag. And of all the brilliant cuts, round diamonds result in the most waste so cost more than any other shape.

And so we take a look at our final cut type: step cut diamonds.

Step cut diamonds are typically square or rectangular diamond shapes that possess long, linear facets arranged parallel to one another. Each of these facets result in flashes of light that resemble steps-as its name suggests.

Popular diamond shapes that are step cut include emerald, Asscher and baguettes. Step cut diamonds have their advantages and disadvantages.

Step cut diamonds lend themselves to diamond cutting because their shape allows more of the raw diamond to be preserved in the cutting process. This means less waste is produced when cutting step cut diamond shapes. In turn, combined with a lower demand, this means that the price point of step cut diamonds is often more affordable than that of brilliant cut diamonds.

The step cut facets of an emerald cut or an Asscher cut diamond provide a very different appearance to the scintillating sparkle of a brilliant cut diamond. Instead, step cut diamonds display bold and clean flashes of light. If you’re not a fan of bling, you’ll appreciate the more understated life demonstrated in these long, linear facet structures.

• Vintage diamond cuts
• Vintage engagement rings
• Brilliant round cut diamonds